Franco Finishes has been trading for 18 years and our technical
staff can offer advice on architectural drawings, including
detailing, relevant products, U-values and colour schemes.
Trouble-shooting and written technical reports can also be
supplied.
| Q: |
Is it OK to render onto
high suction blocks like Thermolite or Duroc blocks? |
| A:
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Yes, but a 3mm Universal key coat
must first be applied to kill the suction. If render were to be applied
directly, the water in the mix would be drawn out too quickly allowing the
cement to dehydrate, giving the render insufficient time to harden and
consequently resulting in poor adhesion and a powdery, weak surface. |
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| Q: |
What considerations are
there when rendering smooth concrete? |
| A:
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All concrete will have mould and
oil deposits on the surface. This should be removed with a mild detergent.
Franco Universal and LP Hardener should be mixed together and applied
between 2 to 3 mm and allowed to cure for 2 days, This is an excellent
preparation for render, but be careful not to apply a finishing render
coat greater than 10 mm thick. |
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| Q: |
What render should I apply
to ply and metal lath? |
| A: |
None. All traditional renders
will crack on this substrate, but in the old days it would be painted.
Now we only apply renders to BluClad
which is a calcium silicate board; it is a very stable board and fixing is
straightforward. |
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| Q: |
I would like to use
polished plaster in a shower area. Is this recommended? |
| A:
|
We have applied our Portofino
finish in bathrooms and shower areas, but it should not be applied to
gypsum plaster and plasterboard. Use Cape BluClad
board coated with Franco Universal/ Bloomsbury Fine /Portofino. |
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| Q: |
Can I have a perfectly
smooth pigmented stucco with even colour? |
| A:
|
There will always be some tonal
variation across the surface. This occurs as the trowel edge runs across
the surface and it slightly separates the pigment from the cement
particles leaving two slightly different colours. But it does give the
look and feel of a natural finish. If you want to avoid colour variation,
it is necessary to scrape the surface to remove the laitance (*) from the surface, although this will result in the surface
having a slight texture. (*Laitance - the fatty particles which
float to the surface of a plaster when it is trowelled up.) |
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| Q: |
How much do your products
cost? |
| A: |
It depends on how big your
project is. For over 200 square metres, the prices start at around £22 to
£25 per square metre supply and fix for Natural stucco.
If you are using our Portofino Italian style stucco with a metallic
finish it will cost from £50 to £65 per square metre. |
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| Q: |
Do you apply your products
yourselves? |
| A: |
We will guide you to our
recommended contractors who have experienced staff trained in the
application of our products. We do not recommend the use of untrained
contractors in the application of specialist finishes. |
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| Q: |
Do you have BBA
certificate? |
| A: |
No. It costs between
£8,000 - £10,000 per product to gain certification. With nine
products in production, we don't believe it makes business sense for us at
this time to gain certification. The downside is that some local
authority work is difficult to bid for without certification.
The certificate is based on tests completed on a weather
rig over a 2 week cycle. This process certainly gives a strong
indication of adhesion and weather permeability - albeit under perfect
application conditions and perfectly in line with the manufacturer's
specification. However, we all know that perfect conditions are
often not achieved in reality - which is why Franco manufactures products
which will tolerate a degree of abuse. In any event, we only
recommend plastering firms who are trained in the application of our
products.
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| Q: |
Do resin based coatings
last as well as cementitious finishes? |
| A: |
No. There are many
different types of resin coatings - or polymer emulsion, as they are more
commonly known. These types of coatings will normally last 10/15/20
years depending on the quality and whether it is correctly
installed. After this period of time, the finish will have lost its
elasticity, become brittle, and it will also have lost some of its
adhesion; therefore failure is likely to occur. [The price of thin
resin coating will vary from £25 to £95 per 15/20 litre tub.
Basically, the more you pay, the better quality of product you'll obtain.]
Cementitious finishes are far more stable. They will
last from 25 to 50 years, as long as each coat is the right strength, has
been correctly mixed, applied under good conditions, allowed to cure and
been protected during its early life.
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| Q: |
What is the difference
between a normal sand and cement render and a factory made polymer render? |
| A: |
In a word - performance.
Rendering was always the cheap way to finish a building. Unlike
bricks, which were pre-made in quality controlled factory conditions,
renders were made on site by all sorts of different people in variable
conditions. Under the circumstances render got a bad name. [We
could go on at length with the answer to this question, but it would take
too long.]
Basically, the polymers in factory made renders give
consistency and control of what is a powder material. All the
applicator has to do is add water and machine mix. It is far easier
than with normal sand/cement render to spot any misuse on site (not
in line with the manufacturer's recommendations).
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| Q: |
Is it OK to render below
the DPC? |
| A: |
All manufacturers will advise
against this. Due to water ingress and frost action, most renders
would fail within 5 years. However, the desired effect can be
achieved by introducing BluClad - a calcium
silicate board - fixed to the substrate. This isolates the moisture
from the render coat. A suitable coating (can be provided by Franco)
must be applied to the board for a successful specification. |
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| Q: |
Where should I put
expansion joints when using render or stucco? |
| A: |
The first expansion joint should
be positioned in line with the substrate expansion joints, typically every
6 linear metres. In the Code of Practice for external render,
expansion joints are also put to one side of window and door openings:
stress cracking tends to occur here, making it the weakest part of the
render matrix. Be sure not to render an unbroken area larger than 18
square metres. |
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| Q: |
Can we apply your finishes
over GRP? |
| A: |
With thin coat stuccos which are
correctly formulated for the job - you can. |
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| Q: |
Are anti-graffiti coatings
compatible with your finishes and does it change the surface? |
| A: |
There are many types of
anti-graffiti coatings. Typical are those which are classified as
sacrificial anti-graffiti coatings - which will last one time and then
have to be over-coated once attacked. These affect the surface finish
least of all. Recently, we have been using a water wax coating which
we have found to be the best. Others which will withstand repeated
attack and cleaning will create a glazed surface.
All of these coatings are compatible with our finishes.
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| Q: |
Is Franco's Portofino
cheaper than the top selling competitor's product? |
| A: |
Oh, it's a tough
commercial world. Ask us to quote and you're unlikely to be
disappointed. |
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| Q: |
Is it OK to render over
paint? |
| A: |
We strongly advise against
it. You should only consider doing so if you bush hammer or needle
gun the painted surfaces beforehand. (We are aware that some
companies put a fairing coat over the paint when the new finish is a resin
type coating. We remain to be convinced.) |
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| Q: |
Is it OK to render over
gypsum plaster? |
| A: |
No. Gypsum is too weak a
background to apply a cement product over. (It is likely that the
cement will pull it off.) |
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| Q: |
What maintenance is
required for self coloured finishes? |
| A: |
A jet wash with a mild detergent
is sufficient to clean most atmospheric deposits. |
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| Q: |
What beads are used when
rendering? |
| A: |
All external render, stuccos and
thin coat finishes will have to have stainless steel bead. in the
case of natural stone stuccos, it is best to use timber rules to form the
external angle in the render. |
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| Q: |
What thickness of external
wall insulation is required to achieve 45'U' value? |
| A: |
In a low thermal value substrate
such as concrete construction of 225mm thickness, the minimum will be 60mm
of insulation plus 10mm of render. |
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| Q: |
You say that you give
"independent technical consultancy". How can I believe
that when you also market your own products? |
| A: |
Franco's policy is genuinely to
discuss
applicability of its own products and other manufacturers' products to
clients' requirements in an open and constructive manner. We find that
this enables clear understanding and objectivity prior to
specifying. If a competitor's product is more appropriate for your
requirements than ours, we will say so up front. (We don't want to
take on business if we suspect the client will not be happy with the end
result). If competing products are comparable, we will be happy to
give our view on the pros and cons. Quite often, where products from
competing manufacturers are comparable, we find that when we are
specified, our client's decision was based either on price, on
ability/willingness to take a flexible/customised approach, or on the
added value that we bring with our technical expertise. (With Franco
Finishes, you deal with practitioners, not with salesmen.)
If requested, we are prepared to take on specific fee
paid consultancy assignments on the clear understanding that our products
will not be specified.
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Franco Finishes LimitedDisclaimer: The answers to the questions
posed are offered in good faith based on the general experience of Franco.
For each project, specific professional advice should always be sought in order
to take into account the particular context, conditions and materials unique to
the project. Franco Finishes accepts no liability for any adverse
consequences incurred through following the advice above.
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